Scottsdale, AZ

For today’s visit, I did a check on the blower motor on the unit over the bedroom. I found that the blower motor was pulling correct amps in the capacitor was within manufacturer specifications. The duct work connected to the return that is making the most noise is only about 5 feet from the unit whereas the other unit is about 15 feet. The motor is aftermarket, but there is no issues with the motor at this time. Homeowner is not worried about the noise just more concerned There wasn’t an issue.

I performed an AC check up And here are my findings. All amp draws were reading within manufacturer specifications. Capacitors were also reading within tolerance range. Evaporator coil was clean and so is the blower wheel. Also condenser coils were cleaned. However, I was only getting a 7° temperature split. I checked the charge of the refrigerant and found the system was low on refrigerant. I performed a visual inspection with soapy bubbles to find a leak, but there was No oil residue was present anywhere on the unit. It could possibly be coming from the evaporator coil that did show signs of rust but passed the soapy bubble test. Homeowner stated Parker and Sons was just out And said they needed a new compressor. Due to another company working on the unit I just charge the system for now with 3 pounds of refrigerant as a baseline. Will have to perform a quality check in the future. Upon departure system was cooling properly with a 20° temperature split.

I inspected the vents that weren’t producing airflow. Found that the two vents next to the thermostat were allowing so much airflow out it was not getting to the rest of events. I blocked off 3/4 of each of those vents into the bedroom. I also change the filters because they were extremely dirty With construction debris. I also inspected that the indoor coil is dirty and will need to be cleaned. Once construction is done.

Upon inspection I found the system was working and temperature inside was at 75 degrees. Checked out the unit and things didn’t add up correctly. Got technical support line and we came up with probable main outdoor board failure. Ordering new board and need to come back to replace. Replace outdoor control board

Clear primary drain line of debris

I installed a Daikin FTXS18LVJU/RXS18LVJU ductless mini-split system for cooling. The process involved mounting the indoor and outdoor units, running refrigerant lines, and installing a condensate pump. I charged the system with R-410A, programmed the wireless remote, and performed a full system check to ensure optimal operation.

I performed a cooling repair on a Carrier 24ABB3 air conditioner. The compressor wasn't starting due to a failed start capacitor. I replaced it with a new 88-108 MFD capacitor and also installed a Supco SPP6 hard start kit to reduce startup strain on the compressor.

Today I showed up to inspect a split gas system for a no cool. Here are my findings, Upon Initial approach of indoor air handler. I noticed the condensate safety switch was triggered. After taking safety, switch out of the reservoir, Air handler started up. I blew Out primary drain line with nitrogen. Declaring the line of debris.

Today I showed up to do a George flight club annual AC check up. Here are my findings, I found it all components on both systems were operating within manufacture specifications. Homeowner asked to get a new drain pan installed on air handler for the main house. Homeowner also asked to get an estimate on duct work and a return vent placed in the guest bedroom. No, Further notes at this time.

Upon inspection, I found the swamp cooler damper to be wide open. The damper is malfunctioning not closing when the swamp cooler is not running. Allowing hot air to get into the air ducks because it’s all connected to the AC duct system. As a temporary fix a piece of sheet metal was screwed into the top of the dampers to hold them closed for the time being.

I repaired a Daikin FTXR18TVJUW wall-mounted mini-split AC. The unit was leaking water indoors. I cleaned the condensate drain pan and line using a Rectorseal Viper condensate cleaner. I also replaced the float switch with a new Daikin assembly 3P555493-2. The unit now operates without leaks.

Daikin 5 ton split heat pump 14.3 SEER2 Single stage compressor system System does not qualify for SRP Rebate. System comes with a 12 year parts warranty and 6 year unit replacement warranty through Daikin. 2 year labor warranty through All Out! Scope of work 1. Protect home with floor covers and drape plastic in closets and pantries as needed. 2. Remove & Replace existing split system with new AHRI rated split system with air handler in the attic. 3. Supply & Install custom uni-strut hangers to support system/drain pan. 4. Supply & Install a new Goliath Dexelar secondary drip pan with vibration isolators. 5. Supply & Install new custom fabricated duct distribution boxes (plenums) matched & sealed to the flange of the air handler to prevent air leaks. 6. Supply & Install new manual dampers on every supply duct off of the plenum. 7. Supply & Install condensate overflow safety switch. 8. Supply & Install new condensate EZ-trap with cleanouts and brush for ease of maintenance.

Today I showed up to perform a no cool on a package heat pump. After a very thorough investigation, I found the contactor to be faulty. After replacing the Contactor, the system began to run within manufacturer specifications. No additional Thoughts or notes at this time Replace faulty contactor

Upon arrival I found unit to not be running. Thermostat stated there was a locked rotor error code. At the condenser unit had the same error code. Hardstart kit was added New capacitor was installed that was supplied by the homeowner. Also 24 V transformer was removed to allow room for the new hardstart kit and it is not needed At the condenser. System is now cooling properly with a 25° temperature split.

Today I performed AC maintenance on a package heat pump. I found that all components. Were operating within manufacturer specifications. System operating properly at this time.

Today I showed up to reprogram the thermostat. After further investigation, I found that it was not the thermostat, it was the condensate safety switch was activated, killing power. After opening the union, I discovered water backed up in the condensate line. Blew out the condensate line with Nitro. System is operating properly at this time.

Upon inspection, I found the blower wheel had come apart, not allowing the motor to spin. Recommend replacing blower wheel. The lack of airflow across the coil was causing the unit to freeze. Estimate has been sent to the homeowner and Marianne is aware of the repairs. Blower wheel was replaced. System is now cooling with a 27° split.

Add p trap to drain line and vacuum drain line from under the sink. Upon initial inspection found there to be standing water in the drainpan. Vacuumed out the drain line and installed a running ptrap to ensure proper drainage. System is now draining properly at this time

I replaced the capacitor in the air handler and condenser unit of the HVAC system. The condenser was not running, so I turned on the breaker and found that the compressor was getting 17 amps. I tested the capacitor and found that it had failed. I replaced it with a new 40mf capacitor with compressor protection. After replacing the capacitor, the compressor's amps went down to 9.6 amps. I also checked the amps of the condenser fan motor and blower motor, which were both within manufacturer specifications. The system is now cooling properly at a 24° temperature split.

Performed a comprehensive AC system check on a Lennox LRP16GE package gas unit. Inspected all components, including the compressor, heat exchanger, and blower motor, ensuring they operate within manufacturer specifications. Checked refrigerant levels, tested the thermostat, and verified the electrical connections. The system is currently running efficiently and effectively with no issues found. Regular maintenance ensures optimal performance and longevity. For expert HVAC system checks and maintenance, contact us to keep your system in top condition.

Replace dual capacitor 50/5 mfd. and hard start kit Regarding the main unit for the house, I found the hard start kit to have failed And the dual run capacitor was out of tolerance range. Both were replaced and system was checked amp draws on the system were good and gas safety controls were in working order. However, the temperature split was low at 14°. Homeowner is aware that there is a leak in the system. I inspected the evaporator coil and found a lot of rust. I suspect the leak is coming from there. Homeowner Wants to hold off on repairs for now and possibly have us come back and charge the system. Regarding the two other units all Amp draws were within tolerance range, and all capacitors are in good standing. All gas safeties are working properly. All blower wheels and evaporator coils are clean. And all drain lines were flushed. The unit up in the attic was getting a 23° temperature split. And the unit in the hall closet was getting a 25° temperature split. All three condenser

Today I performed AC maintenance on a package heat pump. I found that all components. Are operating within manufacture specifications. System is working properly at this time. Changed out filters per customer request. No further thoughts, or notes at this time

Installed a new 14” x 20” return vent in the master bedroom to improve airflow. After installation, checked the static pressure, which measured at 0.6 inches water column (wc), a reduction of 0.2 wc from the previous level. This adjustment enhances the efficiency and performance of the HVAC system. Proper airflow is crucial for optimal heating and cooling. For professional HVAC modifications and improvements, contact us to ensure your system operates at peak efficiency.

Today I looked at a package unit and a split system. Homeowner stated the split system was not keeping up. I got a 20° temperature split at the air handler. I also checked the condenser amp draws and capacitor. Everything is cooling properly at this time. I did however find a dirty filter for this unit. There was one on site so I replaced it. I took a split of the package unit and also getting a 20° split. After running the system for about 20 minutes, the temperature inside dropped 2°. Both systems are cooling properly at this time.

replace electrical whip