Gilbert, AZ

Upon inspection, I did find the unit was satisfying the thermostat at 85°. I turned the unit on and inspected the outdoor unit and found all amp draws within manufacturer specifications. Along with a new capacitor that was installed by another company that was also good. I went into the attic and inspected the furnace and blower. Everything was running properly no signs of dirt or debris on the coil or the blower wheel. System has a 19° temperature split. System is cooling properly and running well at this time.

Install 2 condensate safety switches on primary drain line, to protect from overflow.

Replace dual run capacitor Found bad dual capacitor on downstairs unit. System is under the manufacturer five-year warranty. Capacitor was replaced With a turbo 200 at warranty price

Leak search I performed a leak search And here am my findings. I Inspected the condenser and didn’t find any signs of a leak there. However, at the evaporator coil, I found extreme signs of deterioration on the bottom of the coil. Oil stains In the drain pan and on the coil itself. Using an ultrasonic leak detector, I was able to determine the leak was in the top corner of the coil. Leak is unable to be repaired and coil needs replacement.

Replace filter drier Work completed morning of 8/27

Leak search, add R-410A as needed. Found a restriction in the liquid line filter drier. Need to order filter and replace tomorrow. Liquid line filter dryer was replaced. System was pressure tested to 200 psi and showed there was no leaks in the system. Vacuum was pulled on the system, however, unable to hold under 1000 microns. System was then purged with nitrogen and is now holding 500 microns. System was charged with 14 lbs of R410 refrigerant.

Install condensate safety switch, And correctly vent the primary drain line.

Showed up today to perform a service call, During my investigation, I found the primary drain line to be clogged and causing the secondary drain line to overfill leaking down into the first floor bathroom, causing the water damage. Both primary and secondary are clean and free.A debris and systems should condensate properly. No additional thoughts or notes at this time. Clean the primary and secondary drain line of glogs or debris

Today I showed up For a no cool call. during my investigation, I found the line set to be honest Iced over. After hooking up my gauges, I had readings that the system was low on r twenty two. After doing a leaky bubble search that Yielded no results. I recommend replacing the twenty three year old split gas system.

Clean Evaporator coils on all 3 air handlers. Reroute drain lines to allow full access to filters. Replace condensate drain line. Block off return on the air handler above walk in cooler.

Today, I showed up to perform an AC maintenance on a split heat pump. Here are my findings, I found that all components in the system were operating within manufacture, specifications, and unit is operating properly at this time.

Today I showed up to do a George flight club. Complete maintenance on two split gas systems. Here are my findings, The age of both systems are twenty three years old, But all components were operating within manufacturer specifications. No additional thoughts or notes at this time.

Today I showed up to perform an a c maintenance on two gas furnace. All components on both systems were operating within manufacturer specifications. Neither unit had condensate safety switches installed.

Today I showed up to inspect the condensate drain lines on a one-year-old Heat pump upon investigation there was a piece of debris, clogging drain line. The debris did not seem to be hindering the flow of Drain line.

Upon inspection, I found the units working maintaining 76° at the thermostat. I did do a full inspection and found everything to be operating within intolerance range. System is a Rudd inverter system. There was an error code on the thermostat that the system had locked out at 10:45 last night. System is getting an 18° temperature split. I also checked the refrigerant charge of the system and found it getting 10° of sub cooling. System is cooling working at this time and there are no fault codes on the condenser or the thermostat at this time.

Performed AC maintenance on a Trane XR80 gas furnace. During the inspection, found the dual capacitor was faulty on the Herm side. Replaced the defective dual capacitor with a 70/7.5 µF capacitor to restore proper functionality. Checked all components to ensure they were operating within manufacturer specifications. Regular maintenance is essential for system efficiency and longevity. For expert HVAC maintenance and repairs, contact us to keep your system running smoothly and effectively.

Upon inspection, found the breaker had tripped and diagnosed the issue to a grounded compressor in a 3-ton R22 split system. Suggested a unit replacement due to the severity of the problem. Discussed three replacement estimates with the homeowner, covering options for efficiency and cost. Ensuring the right solution is key for long-term performance and reliability. For expert HVAC diagnostics and replacements, contact us to explore the best options for your home’s cooling needs.

Replace 14" electric damper. Replace 2 dual run capacitors under warranty On arrival, homeowner stated one of the units was not running for a period of time. Unit was operating, however the fan motor was extremely hot reading around 130°. I checked the dual run capacitor and a bad capacitor, also the capacitor on the other system that had a capacitor as well. Systems are under warranty and capacitors replaced per homeowners request. All systems were checked for optimal, performance and condenser coils were cleaned. Also 14 inch electric damper was installed tested and is working properly. Both systems are running with manufacturer specifications at this time. Thank you for letting us go all out for you!

Today I performed no cool. Upon discussion with homeowner found out the problem started this morning. Thermostat was indicating no power to RC wire. While inspecting the evaporator coil. I noticed that condensate safety switch was activated, causing the unit to shut down. I refilled the P-trap for the condensate drain line and blew out the remainder of the drain line. System working properly at this time.

Upon initial inspection, I found the units for the master bedroom to not be blowing any air at all. The compressor and the outdoor fan motor were running, and there was signs of the lines icing up. Upon further investigation, I found the fan motor to be intermittently running for about 30 seconds then shutting off indicating it was a bad fan motor. Fan motor was replaced upon homeowners request with an aftermarket motor. Motor was installed System was tested and is now getting a 18° temperature split. unit is cooling properly at this time and running manufacturer specifications.

On arrival I inspected a Daikin split furnace. Here are my findings. The indoor blower was running, but the condenser outside was not inspected the condenser and found a 04 error code, which stated locked rotor. Indicating the rotor inside of the compressor was locked and unable to move. Able to replace the condenser under warranty. Condenser pressure tested vacuum below 500 µm and filled with an extra 9 ounces of R410A for lineset. System is now cooling correctly and running with manufacturer specifications at this time.

Today I was called to perform a warranty, on a split heat pump. Main drain pan for the evaporator coil and condensate line blowout. After blowing out condensate line, I added a coupler for easy access in case further repairs needed. Upon my investigation, I recorded a 85.8° return air temperature And a 64.3° supplier temperature . Giving a 21° temperature split. Anything 18° or higher is considered good upon inspection of blower motor I recorded 2.05 A which is operating within manufacturer specs. Blower wheel was clean and free debris. Evaporator coil was clean and free of debris. upon initial approach of outside condenser coil, I noticed that the area was clean and free debris no obstructions. I recorded a 12.41 amp draw on compressor motor which is within manufacturer specification. I recorded a .80 amp draw on the outdoor fan motor. Which is within operating specs. Tested dual run capacitor per equation both legs of the dual capacitor were operating within manufacture specs. Please

Upon initial inspection, I found the system components to be operating. I took a temperature split at the furnace and found I was only getting 10° split. I check my pressures at the condenser and was getting a 2° superheat and a 5° sub cooling. Manufacture calls for 11° subcool. The low side pressure was high at around 185 psi and saturation temperature of 65°. Which tells me that the compressor is losing its capacity to pump. The compressor needs to be replaced. Upon departure system is still running with that low 10° split. Homeowners are expecting an estimate by tomorrow.

Upon inspection, I found a bad contactor and a burnt capacitor. I explained to the homeowner. I would need to replace these parts to get the system up and running to do further inspection. They are going to their home warranty to see if they can get their money back for the repairs. Will follow up on Monday.

View visual findings from this job here - https://visionshare.xoi.io/?id=XA-9AD5-B87C7B30C3604514AA5FB0F3EE59AA77